Lemon

Preserved Lemons Belong in Dessert (Yes, Dessert!)—Here's Why

Imagine your favorite pound cake, cheesecake, ice cream, or custard pie with the zing of fresh lemon, plus the subtly salty funk that comes with fermented condiments.

March  8, 2021
Photo by Ty Mecham

Preserved lemon is one of those ingredients that, once it becomes a regular part of your cooking routine, it’s nearly impossible to do without. Savory dishes like crunchy salad, oil-slicked pasta, and tender roast chicken all beg for a hit of tangy, salty preserved lemon. But what happens when, instead of stirring chopped preserved lemon into salad dressing or couscous, you fold it into cake batter? Magic, that’s what.

To back up: Preserved lemon, or salted whole lemons fermented until soft, is typically used as a seasoning or condiment in Tunisian, Moroccan, Israeli, Iranian, Turkish, and other North African and Middle Eastern cuisines, as well in dishes around the Indian subcontinent, where it’s known as lemon pickle, and is also seasoned with additional flavors like turmeric, chili powder, and cumin, among others, depending on the region. Chopped whole (yes, pith and peel, too) and seeded, preserved lemon can be stirred into nearly any dish that calls for fresh lemon, adding all the brightness of tart citrus with a bit more complexity. The brine, a deeply seasoned, lightly lemony syrup, should also be used in cooking, even after the lemons are gone.

A hint of lemon in baked goods like vanilla cakes and sugar cookies is so common, I’ve sometimes found myself zesting the fruit before even reading through a full ingredient list (not recommended!). Lemon adds a fresh tang to sweet treats, even when it’s not the main flavor; preserved lemon is simply a punchier version of its fresh counterpart. Just imagine your favorite pound cake, cheesecake, ice cream or custard pie with the zing of fresh lemon, as well as the subtly salty funk that comes with fermented condiments.

Savory ingredients cropping up in dessert is nothing new, but they continue to delight, from where I’m baking. For a while, it was all about tahini: The relatively mild sesame paste isn’t that different from unsalted peanut butter, and has been a recurring guest star in baked goods for years. I’ve seen cookies and pound cake imbued with earthy miso paste, salty fish sauce caramel rippled through ice cream, and tangy sumac popping up in brownie cookies and olive oil cake. Odds are you’ve seen Chinese five spice or chili powder make an appearance in a treat or two recently, and of course, it would appear as though Big Cardamom is running a campaign to replace cinnamon in every bun, cake, and cookie it can get its hands on these past few years in the U.S. I’m here to predict that preserved lemon is next on the list of savory seasonings about to take over mainstream sweets.

Join The Conversation

Top Comment:
“If you replaced 1tbsp lemon zest with 1tbsp preserved lemon rind, about how much salt does that add? Should the other salt in the recipe be adjusted 1:1 to accommodate?”
— ericbc7
Comment

When it comes to actually putting preserved lemon in a bake, give yourself room to experiment, but a great place to start is with recipes that already call for fresh lemon (or another citrus) juice. Of course, there is a texture difference between finely chopped preserved lemon and juice, but it typically won’t make a major difference in cakes or custards. You may want to add a bit of extra fresh lemon juice in addition to the preserved in instances where lemon is the star of whatever you’re baking, as well as reduce the salt called for in the recipe by three quarters, or even entirely (as I did in this filling for these preserved lemon bars,) but for the most part, consider a one-to-one swap.

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While you can make your own preserved lemon, I am lazy, and store-bought really is fine. Available most typically in its whole-lemon form (my favorite brands are Mina and Tara Kitchen), you can also find preserved lemon paste (for that, I love New York Shuk, as well as the less regularly available preserved Meyer lemon paste from small-batch vinegar company Tart), which is already seedless and mostly smooth—ideal for baking.

How do you like to use preserved lemons? Let us know in the comments!

See what other Food52 readers are saying.

  • Dashmore
    Dashmore
  • ericbc7
    ericbc7
  • Kristin Reeves
    Kristin Reeves
  • Rebecca Firkser
    Rebecca Firkser
Rebecca Firkser is the assigning editor at Food52. She used to wear many hats in the food media world: food writer, editor, assistant food stylist, recipe tester (sometimes in the F52 test kitchen!), recipe developer. Her writing has appeared in TASTE, The Strategist, Eater, and Bon Appetit's Healthyish and Basically. She contributed recipes and words to the book "Breakfast: The Most Important Book About the Best Meal of the Day." Once upon a time, she studied theatre design and art history at Smith College, so if you need a last-minute avocado costume or want to talk about Wayne Thiebaud's cakes, she's your girl. She tests all recipes with Diamond Crystal kosher salt. You can follow her on Instagram @rebeccafirkser.

4 Comments

Dashmore March 17, 2021
I love preserved lemons so much I can’t bear to throw away the brine when they’re gone, but I haven’t found a good way to use it yet. A few drops in my G & T is good, a splash in soup, a sprinkle on steamed veggies, but there’s so much left! Any other ideas?
 
ericbc7 March 14, 2021
If you replaced 1tbsp lemon zest with 1tbsp preserved lemon rind, about how much salt does that add? Should the other salt in the recipe be adjusted 1:1 to accommodate?
 
Author Comment
Rebecca F. March 15, 2021
Every preserved lemon is a bit different when it comes to saltiness, so I can't tell you for sure how much salt 1 tablespoon preserved lemon will add to a recipe. I'd recommend tasting whatever you're making (and erring on the side of less additional kosher salt if you're making, say, a cake batter). You can always compensate with a bit of extra flaky salt on top of whatever you're making before serving!
 
Kristin R. March 14, 2021
I love preserved lemons in salads and roasted vegetables. I’ve never used anything but the rind. Apparently, I’ve been wasting it!